Making Wine from Grapes
These instructions are a simplified overview of the grape winemaking process. For advice or more information, please ask any of Spagnol’s staff. We also suggest that you purchase a good winemaking book to help you get the best results from your grapes. See the back of this page for book recommendations.
1. Choose the grape variety you would like and decide how much wine you want to make. (See the back of this page for a chart that will help you calculate quantities of finished wine.)
2. Crush and destem your grapes and place them in your primary fermenter(s). (Grapes require a lot more primary fermenter space than juice or kits. To calculate the amount of primary space you’ll need, see the back of this page.) For a small fee, Spagnol's will quickly crush and destem your grapes.
3. If the grapes are not in ideal condition (i.e., they show signs of decay or mould), stir in 50 PPM potassium metabisulphite (approximately ½ teaspoon sulphite per 100 pounds of grapes).
4. Record important data, such as titratable acid, free SO2, pH, specific gravity, and fermentation temperature. We can give you approximate numbers for much of this data, but the numbers for your grapes will likely be a little different. Testing kits and equipment are available in our retail store. If you don’t want to do the testing yourself, you can take advantage of our lab: we’ll test the titratable acid, free SO2, pH and specific gravity of your grapes. There is a charge for this service, but it’s worth it.
5. If necessary, adjust the specs you obtained at step 4. We can give you advice on making adjustments.
6. Allow your must (crushed grapes) to reach 16–20°C (62–68°F). For every 100 pounds of grapes, stir in 10 grams of yeast nutrient (approx. 2½ tsp.) and 3.5 grams of pectic enzyme (approx. 1¼ tsp.). Sprinkle yeast over the surface—one 5 gram packet per 100 pounds of grapes.
7. Once fermentation starts, a cap of grape pulp will rise to the surface. Use a long spoon or other tool to push this cap down at least twice a day. Pushing down the cap keeps it moist, and extracts colour, body, tannin, flavours and aroma from the pulp. This primary fermentation stage will probably last 4 to 10 days.
It can be hard to judge the right time to press your must. Generally, though, shorter fermentation with the pulp will produce a lighter wine, and longer fermentation will result in a darker, heavier wine. Whatever you decide, you should try to press before or when the specific gravity reaches 1.000, so it’s a good idea to take daily hydrometer readings. If you like the colour, flavour and aroma of your wine, it’s probably a good time to press. Most winemakers press sometime between the 4th and 10th day.
8. When you decide to press, scoop the must into a basket press or Idropress. Make sure you first put a plastic bucket and sieve under the spout of the press. Press your must slowly. The remaining pulp may be used for a second run wine. (See our handout, “Second Run Wines.”)
9. Pour your wine into a secondary fermenter, and attach an airlock and bung.
10. In 4 to 7 days, rack your wine off the gross solids (very heavy grape pulp sediment). It is important to rack your wine off the gross solids early: extended contact can leave your wine with a hydrogen sulphide aroma (rotten eggs).
From this point, follow the instructions in our separate handout, “Making Wine From Fresh Juice” You’ll proceed either with Day 4 or Day 20, depending on the specific gravity of your pressed wine.